Section I: The Pyrenees and Navarre
September 19-27
106.5 miles from Saint-Jean-Pied-De-Port, France to Logroño, Spain.
The Camino de Santiago is a network of ancient pilgrimage routes that cross Europe and end in Santiago, Spain at the tomb of Saint James. While initially, a religious pilgrimage, most people do it these days for spiritual reasons or for the challenge and experience of walking across Spain. I chose the Frances route, which starts in the Pyrenees mountains and crosses the north section of the country for approximately 500 miles. It’s the most common, which means that there is a lot of infrastructure along the way and many fellow pilgrims, called peregrinos. You collect stamps at every stop as proof that you have walked the path. They are required to receive the Compostela, or certificate, upon reaching Santiago.
I traversed the Pyrenees mountains and walked to the Rioja region in a little over a week, completing one-fifth of the Camino Frances. My nerves about doing this alone were quickly assuaged after meeting some wonderful people on the first day. Our crew constantly grows as we walk 14 to 18 miles, check into the albergue (pilgrim hostel), shower and hand wash our laundry, and promptly grab drinks. The best analogy I have is that it’s kind of like those first few weeks in freshman year of college where packs of eager new students roam the campus. Everyone wants to go out and no one wants to be left behind. But the initial excitement will wear off, and I suspect that people will start to branch out and fall off into their own path. Every moment offers a lesson that’s yours to decipher and accept.
People are open and welcoming and warm - the peregrino spirit is assuming that everyone is a friend and we’re all in this together. I’ve seen people who met just that morning literally holding each other up by the end of the day. Strangers wish each other a Buen Camino as they pass, and locals will return peregrinos to the correct route when they veer off path. It’s happened to me more than once.
My main walking buddies so far are Angela (American) and Tony (Aussie). I find myself laughing more than I have in years.
Hiking poles, as ridiculous as they look, have been critical. They make the uphill more manageable, help with balance on the downhill, and keep a comfortable posture while walking on the flat areas.
Many people on the Way are going through or contemplating major life changes, in need of a reset, or have an adventurous spirit (likely all 3). Relationships ebb and flow in the moment. You find yourself walking next to someone in deep conversation when suddenly they’ve disappeared. Or you disappear. I’m finding that I am having the right conversation with the right person exactly when I need it. Everyone has their own Camino and knows not to take it personally.
The first third of this pilgrim’s journey is known for challenging your body and some days have been physically exhausting. I crossed the mountain in two days to give myself a little bit of grace. The first day reached nearly 90° while walking straight uphill for about 4 miles. The second day provided stunning scenery and a little bit of relief. We arrived in Roncesvalles at an Albergue that sleeps nearly 200 travelers. They were efficient, the laundry facilities were amazing, and it was organized such that you were sleeping in pods of four and you didn’t feel overwhelmed in a sea of people. That doesn’t mean it was easy to sleep. Earplugs are necessity and still don’t quite block out the cacophony of the nighttime orchestra.
Angela and I figured out the secret pretty quickly. We’ll grab a room for four in an Albergue and invite other non-snorers to join us. It’s not fool-proof, but it’s better.
Every day blurs together. I can’t remember the towns I passed or place I stayed in the night before. My favorite Albergues so far were in Zubiri, where the caretaker Sara provided soap, shampoo, conditioner, and laundry detergent (such luxuries!) along with an exquisite four-course meal in a meticulously clean space; and Puente La Reina, where Natalia had us draw a tarot card upon arrival (mine was love) and the place was filled with healing aromatics and statues of the Buddha.
Along with Angela and Tony, I’ve also been walking a lot with Julio (Spain), Anna (Netherlands), Zack (US), and Christine (US). The crew also consists of Wayne (Canada), Ruth and Bob (US), Glenn (UK), Sarah (US), and Paul (Aus/EU) - fellow pilgrims of all ages and physical abilities. It’s amazing what people can do with training, grit, determination, portage service to bring your pack to the next town when your back needs a break, and the occasional taxi when your knees give out. And yes, we carry everything in our pack and it’s been eye-opening to realize how little you actually need (I have 2 outfits). Every ounce counts. Mine weighs about 15 pounds with water and after about 10 miles my shoulders are barking even though there are still miles to go. Well-timed breaks in the towns dotting the path are essential.
The scenery has been beautiful and every day I walk in awe. Today starts a new section and I’ll be walking the week with friends from Massachusetts. I’m actually bit nervous about it because it’s going to completely change the character of the journey. And I’m no longer going to be with this ragtag crew of wonderful people that spontaneously formed. It’s amazing how we all seem to decide to go off-stage or take a rest day just at the same time. I’m worried that they’re going to walk further and by the time my friends leave they’ll be far ahead of me. We’ve developed deep bonds in a short period of time and I’ll be sad if I don’t see them again. Plus, I’ll have to start over and make new friends. But I trust in the Camino and I know that I’ll see whomever I’m meant to at the right time. I open myself up to the synchronicities inevitable in this journey. And in the meantime, delving into this attachment gives me another life lesson to work on.
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| Shells and arrows point pilgrims to the way |
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| The starting point in France |
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| A sight for sore eyes and legs after the most difficult part of the mountain |
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| Sunrise over the Pyrenees |
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| Pamplona |
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| Camino family |
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| Albergue Suseia. One of my favorite. |
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| There have been countless beautiful and interesting doors along the path. |
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| I met a few Israelis and we gathered for Rosh Hashanah dinner |
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| Our rest break was foiled by a royal visit that shut down the town so we improvised |
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| My passport to date |
