Aloha nā lio

Aloha nā lio means “hello horses” in Hawaiian. Aloha lio means horse lover. Both apply here. Through a friend, I found the Mahalo Aina Sanctuary on the Island of Hawai’i (aka, the Big Island). 

The Big Island is the largest and youngest island in the Hawaiian archipelago. It’s home to 5 major volcanos (some of which are active), including Mauna Kea, which, from base to top, is the highest mountain in the world. The Big Island also features 11 out of the world’s 13 climate zones (no arctic or tundra), ranging from tropical to desert to snow peaks up top Mauna Kea. It’s known as a place of profound spiritual energy and connection, rooted deeply in Hawaiian culture and enriched by its dynamic natural forces. Unsurprisingly, it’s also an area rife with tension between the indigenous Hawaiians and mainland interlopers.

Jungle

Hiking the volcano before it erupted

                                                     The volcano erupting (12/30/24)

Crystal clear water on a black sand beach and sea turtles

Sunset from above the clouds

Atop Mauna Kea at sunset. It was freezing.

Paniolo Festival. Paniolos are traditional Hawaiian cowboys.

Mahalo Aina is located on the Northeast side of the island, high up on the mountain overlooking the Pacific Ocean, and it is delightful. Fabi, the owner, keeps a herd of 16 horses (soon to be 17) on the property, meaning that you walk out on the lanai to a stunning view of the lush pastures and ocean, surrounded by horses grazing freely. 

We’re situated so high above that you can see the cloud line from the driveway. And the full moon reflecting on the still water below is serene and striking.

Fabi has a gift for healing trauma (equine and human). The horses that weren’t bred at the sanctuary all came from traumatic situations, many of whom were untouchable at first. By saying yes to the no’s and taking the yeses as far as the horse will allow, she has been able to rehabilitate them into loving creatures using communication, consent, and connection. The result is inspiring. You must earn each horse’s trust, and once you do, it creates an unshakable bond. When I groom a horse, I ask permission before using each brush and putting on the saddle and bridle. If the horse says no, I have to find someone else to ride that day (no one has said no yet). And they enjoy being ridden – because otherwise they would say no! Even after riding for decades, I still have a lot to learn, and Fabi (and more importantly, Bucky and Sonoma) have helped me grow.

                                                         I haven't cantered bareback in decades.

The sanctuary is located in the town of Pāpaʻaloa, an unincorporated community consisting of farms and a local country store. The nearest city is Hilo, about 35 minutes south. Importantly, it has a Target. Driving up the coast to the north is dotted with charming towns. Life is relaxed but expensive, due to the fact that nearly everything is imported. (Note to self: stop choosing magnificent, but pricy destinations). The beaches are glorious and come in shades of regular, black, and green sand. The hikes and waterfalls are beautiful. Tropical fruits and vegetables are plentiful. Oftentimes, all you have to do is pluck one from the closest tree and sink your teeth into it.

 

The Papa'aloa Country Store is the local (and only) gathering place and has everything you could need - including live music on the weekend.

                                                        Sonoma and I like to go guava hunting together. 

 

My housemates are lovely and in addition to the horses, we share the house with 3 dogs and 6 cats (and uncountable geckos and coquí frogs).

 

Lunch. Genius. Nothing comes for free. That includes island living where you’re surrounded by striking scenery and temperatures from 60-85 degrees all year. And in this case, the price is insects. They're everywhere and from termites to cockroaches, they’re impossible to escape (except for the house I'm living in -- they do a top notch job at controlling them). It’s a wonderful lesson in letting go.

Also, beware of falling coconut fronds.

It barely grazed my shoulder

 

The staggering views, frequent rainbows, and sweet songs of Hawaii still draw me close. I’ll be here for a bit longer…

Random Happenings in August 2024

While there were no major trips the rest of the summer, there were still notable events.

Found on a t-shirt at the Hare Krishna temple in Potomac, MD

I rode my first motorcycle with Ken, a dear friend from law school, in Michigan. Despite the fact that I've been riding horses since I was 7 and find mopeds thrilling, I found it surprisingly terrifying. Luckily, Ken is a seasoned driver and assured me that I wouldn't fall off (he was right). 

I also met up with Sarah, my friend from Costa Rica, at a Phish concert in Delaware. It was every bit as weird and joyous and fun as you'd expect.

The eyes glowed when it was fully dark

One of my closest friends, Elena, turned 40 and we celebrated by renting a large house in rural Virginia for hiking, pampering, cooking, dancing, and tarot cards. It was the perfect expression of her spirit.

The birthday girl is next to me.

Next...off to Hawaii for some equine therapy...

Growing is exhausting. This little guy is under one-month old.

Joy and Heartache in Tel Aviv

July 25-August 4

Sixteen years was much too long since I had been in Israel, so I used the Psychedelic Medicine conference as an excuse to return to Tel Aviv. And it did feel like a return.  My soul knew it was in its homeland as soon as the wheels touched down. Thanks to a travel pillow and well-timed medication, I adjusted to the time zone without much trouble.

Tall buildings, the Mediterranean Sea, and ancient streets capture the shell of the city

This was the first time I was there without a group tour, and I was initially worried about how I would get around town. It turns out to be quite easy – the public transportation system is straightforward and reliable. One train ride and a semi-sketchy neighborhood later, I found myself at Max’s apartment. Max is my ex-husband and a mensch. I’m fortunate to still have him as a treasured person in my life. He had the bravery two years ago to quit his job and make Aliyah (meaning he became an Israeli citizen), and now works on peace-building initiatives for Israelis and Arabs in Tel Aviv. As I said, he’s a mensch.

Max knows where to find the best hummus

The Joy

Tel Aviv is a bustling and walkable city, so we started with a mosey around town. The best stop was Carmel market (a "shouk"), which is Tel Aviv's vibrant and most famous open-air market. It’s a sensory overload of sights, sounds, and smells, filled with stalls of dried fruits, spices, nuts, and my favorite, halva (a sweet candy made from sesame paste) in every flavor you could think of. There are vendors with produce, baked goods, freshly butchered meat and fish, trinkets, and clothing. It transports you through the ages and connects the past with the present. 

         

The next day, we walked through the winding, narrow streets of Jaffa, just south of Tel Aviv. Jaffa is one of the oldest port cities in the world and a historically rich neighborhood with stunning architecture. It’s divided into the old city and the ancient city.

The Wishing Bridge. "An ancient legend holds that anyone boarding the bridge, holds its zodiac sign and looks at the sea - their wish will come true."

I'm a Taurus.

Tel Aviv is a 24/6 kind of town, While many vendors and restaurants close for Shabbat, during the week the streets are full of energy. Even late at night people are running on the boardwalk, eating at cafes, and plenty of bump/set/spike on the beach. One day I made my way over to the Tel Aviv Museum of Art, which is filled with Israeli art and has a lovely Impressionism exhibit.

Bamba, my favorite snack. Think peanut butter flavored cheese puffs (without the cheese).

Captivated by the Sea

Very little makes my heart flutter more than the Mediterranean Sea. I spent hours walking on the beach and meditating in the water. I also dodged fierce paddle ball and keep-it-up games. It was glorious. 

                                  

Many years ago, I was conversant plus in Hebrew. I’ve always been convinced that the language is still back in the file cabinet of my brain. Dispiritingly, I seem to have misplaced the key. But some words were able to slip through the slots. Unfortunately, they came out of my mouth in Spanish. By the end of the week, it started returning and I have no doubt that in little time I would be able to shout back at the vendors in Carmel market.

My White Whale (In the Form of a Black Cat)

Because there’s always an animal story. Like many cities in Israel, Tel Aviv has a major street cat problem. While some were a little skinny, most of them looked healthy enough. I saw a few ear tips and there appear to be regular feeders (although not nearly enough of either). As Max and I were wandering down a lovely street in a fancy neighborhood, I came across a black cat with missing fur and open wounds that broke my heart. I couldn’t let this one go. And I was lucky that Alissia, a Belgian-French woman who was in Tel Aviv to launch a perfume business, walked over with a friend of mine when she did. Another animal lover, she was also concerned about this cat, and we spent the next few days going back to that street looking for her. It felt futile at times, but I was determined.

I'll spare you the worst photos

Eventually, we captured her, brought her to a veterinarian, and named this ugly little kitty Flower. Alissia took her in, and she made her gratitude well-known. We were able to get Flower some deeply needed care before she returned home.

Alissia and I were on the case

Success!

A very grateful girl

So ugly

It's amazing what a little TLC can do

The Heartbreak

My heart holds many chambers, and I feel for the pain and suffering of both the Israeli hostages, their families, and the country, as well as for the Palestinians in Gaza. There are photos of the hostages as you walk towards baggage claim in the airport. Hostage Square, which is outside the Tel Aviv Museum of Art, is moving and terrifying with photos and a replica of a Hamas tunnel. Having difficulty getting a flight out of Israel is nothing compared to the terror that Palestinians are facing on a daily basis as they’re trapped in Gaza. My heart aches for everyone and I pray for peace, I pray for the hostages to be released, and I pray for the innocent bystanders in Gaza. It is an awful situation that has no right answers and many wrong ones.

I’m not the only one who feels this way. Every Saturday evening, thousands of Israelis gather to protest the current government, demanding a ceasefire deal and the return of the hostages. Yet, their love of country is strong as they waive Israeli flags and sing the national anthem.

Mere hours before my flight, I received a message that it was cancelled. It was widespread as airlines were nervous to fly to Israel due to the unrest caused by recent events. Alissia and I became good friends during the cat saga and she generously invited me to stay with her when my trip was unexpectedly extended. She lives in Neve Tzedek, the West Village of Tel Aviv, filled with cobblestone streets, art galleries, fancy boutiques, French bakeries, a Kabbalah center, and al fresco cafes. This was not a bad place to be stuck. 

Dallal, an amazing French bakery.

The air was tense the first day after a top Hamas leader was assassinated. Max insisted that I download an app that alerts users of incoming missiles, and I always knew where to find the closest bomb shelter. I was amazed at how normal things felt the next day. Israelis are used to this and are determined to live their lives. 

Not even a terrorism threat reduces the long lines at Tel Aviv's, nay, Israel's best ice cream at Cassata. Pictured is Almond Cinnamon with Sesame. 

Three days and three cancelled flights later, I was finally able to get one that departed as scheduled and made it back to DC via London, over 25 hours after leaving. While I wanted to spend more time in Israel, this wasn’t the way. It was wrenching to feel like I had to escape.

 

Israel, I’ll be back.

El Al, Israel's national airline, was the only one flying in and out of the country.

A collection of the Mr. Men and Little Miss books at London Heathrow Airport delighted the 8-year-old in me.