Sixteen years was much too long since I had been in Israel, so I used the Psychedelic Medicine conference as an excuse to return to Tel Aviv. And it did feel like a return. My soul knew it was in its homeland as soon as the wheels touched down. Thanks to a travel pillow and well-timed medication, I adjusted to the time zone without much trouble.
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| Tall buildings, the Mediterranean Sea, and ancient streets capture the shell of the city |
This was the first time I was there without a group tour, and I was initially worried about how I would get around town. It turns out to be quite easy – the public transportation system is straightforward and reliable. One train ride and a semi-sketchy neighborhood later, I found myself at Max’s apartment. Max is my ex-husband and a mensch. I’m fortunate to still have him as a treasured person in my life. He had the bravery two years ago to quit his job and make Aliyah (meaning he became an Israeli citizen), and now works on peace-building initiatives for Israelis and Arabs in Tel Aviv. As I said, he’s a mensch.
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| Max knows where to find the best hummus |
The Joy
Tel Aviv is a bustling and walkable city, so we started with a mosey around town. The best stop was Carmel market (a "shouk"), which is Tel Aviv's vibrant and most famous open-air market. It’s a sensory overload of sights, sounds, and smells, filled with stalls of dried fruits, spices, nuts, and my favorite, halva (a sweet candy made from sesame paste) in every flavor you could think of. There are vendors with produce, baked goods, freshly butchered meat and fish, trinkets, and clothing. It transports you through the ages and connects the past with the present.
The next day, we walked through the winding, narrow streets of Jaffa, just south of Tel Aviv. Jaffa is one of the oldest port cities in the world and a historically rich neighborhood with stunning architecture. It’s divided into the old city and the ancient city.
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| The Wishing Bridge. "An ancient legend holds that anyone boarding the bridge, holds its zodiac sign and looks at the sea - their wish will come true." |
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| I'm a Taurus. |
Tel Aviv is a 24/6 kind of town, While many vendors and restaurants close for Shabbat, during the week the streets are full of energy. Even late at night people are running on the boardwalk, eating at cafes, and plenty of bump/set/spike on the beach. One day I made my way over to the Tel Aviv Museum of Art, which is filled with Israeli art and has a lovely Impressionism exhibit.
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| Bamba, my favorite snack. Think peanut butter flavored cheese puffs (without the cheese). |
Very little makes my heart flutter more than the Mediterranean Sea. I spent hours walking on the beach and meditating in the water. I also dodged fierce paddle ball and keep-it-up games. It was glorious.
Many years ago, I was conversant plus in Hebrew. I’ve always been convinced that the language is still back in the file cabinet of my brain. Dispiritingly, I seem to have misplaced the key. But some words were able to slip through the slots. Unfortunately, they came out of my mouth in Spanish. By the end of the week, it started returning and I have no doubt that in little time I would be able to shout back at the vendors in Carmel market.
Because there’s always an animal story. Like many cities in Israel, Tel Aviv has a major street cat problem. While some were a little skinny, most of them looked healthy enough. I saw a few ear tips and there appear to be regular feeders (although not nearly enough of either). As Max and I were wandering down a lovely street in a fancy neighborhood, I came across a black cat with missing fur and open wounds that broke my heart. I couldn’t let this one go. And I was lucky that Alissia, a Belgian-French woman who was in Tel Aviv to launch a perfume business, walked over with a friend of mine when she did. Another animal lover, she was also concerned about this cat, and we spent the next few days going back to that street looking for her. It felt futile at times, but I was determined.
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| I'll spare you the worst photos |
Eventually, we captured her, brought her to a veterinarian, and named this ugly little kitty Flower. Alissia took her in, and she made her gratitude well-known. We were able to get Flower some deeply needed care before she returned home.
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| Alissia and I were on the case |
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| Success! |
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| So ugly |
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| It's amazing what a little TLC can do |
The Heartbreak
My heart holds many chambers, and I feel for the pain and suffering of both the Israeli hostages, their families, and the country, as well as for the Palestinians in Gaza. There are photos of the hostages as you walk towards baggage claim in the airport. Hostage Square, which is outside the Tel Aviv Museum of Art, is moving and terrifying with photos and a replica of a Hamas tunnel. Having difficulty getting a flight out of Israel is nothing compared to the terror that Palestinians are facing on a daily basis as they’re trapped in Gaza. My heart aches for everyone and I pray for peace, I pray for the hostages to be released, and I pray for the innocent bystanders in Gaza. It is an awful situation that has no right answers and many wrong ones.
I’m not the only one who feels this way. Every Saturday evening, thousands of Israelis gather to protest the current government, demanding a ceasefire deal and the return of the hostages. Yet, their love of country is strong as they waive Israeli flags and sing the national anthem.
Mere hours before my flight, I received a message that it was cancelled. It was widespread as airlines were nervous to fly to Israel due to the unrest caused by recent events. Alissia and I became good friends during the cat saga and she generously invited me to stay with her when my trip was unexpectedly extended. She lives in Neve Tzedek, the West Village of Tel Aviv, filled with cobblestone streets, art galleries, fancy boutiques, French bakeries, a Kabbalah center, and al fresco cafes. This was not a bad place to be stuck.
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| Dallal, an amazing French bakery. |
The air was tense the first day after a top Hamas leader was assassinated. Max insisted that I download an app that alerts users of incoming missiles, and I always knew where to find the closest bomb shelter. I was amazed at how normal things felt the next day. Israelis are used to this and are determined to live their lives.
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Three days and three cancelled flights later, I was finally able to get one that departed as scheduled and made it back to DC via London, over 25 hours after leaving. While I wanted to spend more time in Israel, this wasn’t the way. It was wrenching to feel like I had to escape.
Israel, I’ll be back.
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| El Al, Israel's national airline, was the only one flying in and out of the country. |
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| A collection of the Mr. Men and Little Miss books at London Heathrow Airport delighted the 8-year-old in me. |
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