The secret is out about Costa Rica and for good reason. Pura vida is indeed a way of life. A sense of joy is pervasive. The scenery is stunning, the activity options are endless, and the people are friendly and helpful. Thanks to generous residency requirements during the pandemic, foreigners flocked to the land during COVID and stayed – both for better and worse. Which means that dinner can easily reach $50 and a jar of JIF peanut butter is $8 (thanks, Nosara). On the other hand, vegan and gluten-free foods are aplenty.
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| They spelled it correctly |
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| The water was crystal clear |
All I wanted after 11 days at Tierramor was to scrape off the grime and throw a couple loads of laundry. My goal was to wear the same flowy yoga pants throughout the retreat, and I achieved it. Laundry was priority.
After taking the tuk tuk into town, my friend and I decided to rent a car to explore the country. But the roads in Nosara are in horrible shape and the potholes are everywhere and deep. Within 3 hours of acquiring the SUV, we hit a pothole too hard, flattening a tire. Before I could say "lug nuts," two men pulled over and changed the tire for us (without any expectation of payment – although of course we did pay them).
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| This was an adventure |
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| So was this |
That botched our plans as we turned the car around so we could get the tire fixed early the next morning. And next thing we know, it’s getting dark, and we hadn’t yet found a place to stay. Bhante’s teachings were still strong as I was able to avoid a meltdown and surrender to the fact that laundry was simply not going to be in the cards, even though I was down to emergency underwear.
We stayed in Nosara overnight; a place that oozes bougie spirituality. As we were leaving town, we passed a horse that had escaped from the fence and was dangerously close to the side of the road. I told my friend to pull over, and before he could ask if I was serious, I had already jumped out of the car as I ran across the street (trucks be damned, there was a horse to rescue). My friend is sitting in the car wondering how he’s going to save me while I tried to corral the feisty equine back into the field. I slid on my rear going down the steep embankment from the road as the horse slipped underneath the barbed wire and back where she belonged. Unfortunately, my friend did not take a photo, but I swear it happened.
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A different horse that got some TLC
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| Cows, horses, goats, chickens, and oxen dot the countryside. The local greasy spoon is called a "Soda," a mom-and-pop open air restaurant, and they're everywhere. |
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| The best fruit comes from the side of the highway |
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| A Soda |
One of the most traditional Costa Rican dishes – Gallo Pinto (black beans, rice, herbs), with salad, bread, and roasted plantains
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Liberia/Playa Coco
June 13-15, 2024
The next morning, my friend and I drove north to a hot springs for a release after 10 days of meditating. We explored Liberia, the largest city in the province, and found charming restaurants and people. Then we traveled to Coco Beach, where you could eat divine chocolate made on site and roll your own cigars.
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La Fortuna
June 16-18, 2024
Cultivating the Joy
While not having firm plans can be stressful, it also provides an opening for the unexpected. A potential equine opportunity (that didn't end up happening) brought me to La Fortuna, which is home to Arenal, an active volcano.
La Fortuna is one of those towns where tourism has wrought both good and bad. Certainly, the economy is booming, yet locals can no longer find a place to live in town because all the apartments have been turned into Airbnbs. Despite the number of tourists and vegan/gluten-free restaurants, it still has a local vibe underneath.
First up was a tour of the jungle from the vantage point of hanging bridges.
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| I carried that raincoat everywhere |
We encountered red poison dart frogs, pit vipers (also poisonous), and howler monkeys galore. We came across iguanas, tarantulas, and many lizards.
It always makes me nervous when wild animals willingly get close to humans because it either never begins or ends well for the animal. These Howler monkeys, on the other hand, simply wanted the intruders to be well-aware of who owned the jungle.
There was also fascinating flora, like this giant leaf that changed color based on the angle and a plant that retracts upon touch.
Next on this outing was a powerful waterfall and a hike up part of the volcano.
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| Now I know where pineapples come from (throwback to 2019) |
It was at this point that I gave myself permission to stop touring and have fun; seeking more of those moments where the joy is inescapable from my lips. First up was a white-water rafting tour with some class 4 rapids. 
The guide asked me out for drinks afterwards and I almost considered it until he started talking about his 24-year-old older brother. Flattering, but no.
Monteverde
Nothing but a Ripple
June 19-21, 2024
Driving in Costa Rica is an adventure. Double yellow lines are meaningless, and the roads are unpredictable. I rented a Suzuki Vitara and the four-wheel drive came in handy. I drove from La Fortuna to Monteverde on steep mountain roads that were replete with stunning scenery and hairpin turns, some of which were unpaved. It was terrifyingly beautiful. Eventually, I made it back to paved, flattish terrain and finally unclenched. I still drove well under the speed limit because the roads are narrow, trucks are large, curves are tight, and you never know when the next big pothole will sneak up on you. But it wasn’t slow enough, and I couldn’t stop in time when a critter darted out into the road. The only solace was that he didn’t suffer.
Adventures don’t always have happy endings. Some days are there to remind you that life can be random, cruel, and short and it’s our responsibility to fully embrace it. This was one of them.
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| Steep roads end at a one-lane bridge |
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| Potholes. And not even close to the worse of them. |
Head in the Clouds
Monteverde is known for its cloud forest – an area where the clouds intersect with the mountain ranges. And it is stunning. The mountains are dotted with broccoli-like trees hugged by white whips of clouds. I stayed in Santa Elena, the next town over. It manages to wed a tourist town with a cool, artsy local vibe that I really liked.
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| Pura Vibra |
 | | A print from one of the gallery artwork |
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| Found at an "organic" store. Costco is everywhere. |
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| Decor at a sushi restaurant |
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| A funky shop |
The real reason I was in Monteverde was for a little adrenaline rush. So I headed over to “extreme ziplining” where the company’s motto is “Safety first since 1997.” (I don’t want to know what their priority was before then.) The gondolas transport you so high that you feel like you’re flying through the clouds (which I was at one point).
Monteverde was also a place where I could exhale. I took a calming walk in the forest, came across creepy crawlers (scientific name), and finally found the lair for the fungus-food-growing ants.
After dinner one night in the pouring rain, I encountered Nahomy on the sidewalk kneeling next to this little white dog who had clearly been out in the rain for a couple of days. The tag read “Rosa” and had a phone number, but no one was picking up the line. Nahomy wanted to take her home, but she was walking and didn’t think that Rosa would follow her for 1.2 km in the rain. I offered to drive her, her boyfriend, and Rosa to her place.
Rosa was fortunate that she collided paths with Nahomy and her boyfriend. Nahomy was unfortunate enough to leave her phone in my car. Which we didn’t figure out for another day, at which point I had driven 4+ hours from the mountains to the beach. But the story has a happy ending. She had been able to track the phone to my hotel and it was in her hands 2 days later. And Rosa’s owner finally picked up the phone and was relieved to find her dog.
Samara
Beaching Like It's My Job
June 22-25, 2024
After all this activity, I needed to beach. So I returned to the Nicoya peninsula to an international town called Samara. It was everything I wanted in that moment. Beautiful scenery and picturesque sunsets. Refreshing beach. Friendly people. A laid-back community with plenty of local flavor.
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| CBD Kombucha + Beach = Magic |
The one activity I was really excited about was snorkeling. I had been wanting to go for years and Samara’s scenic beach and clear waters seemed ideal. I paired it with a dolphin tour, knowing that they couldn’t guarantee any sightings. And then this appeared from the water.
But everything comes with a price.
(This is Ginger Ale)
And after all that…snorkeling never happened. The water was too cloudy.
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| I had a bellyache |
Making Friends, Finding Community
You’re never alone when traveling solo and I encountered incredible people along the way. I met Sarah, who is an attorney from Dallas with itchy feet and excellent taste in music, in La Fortuna during the volcano hike. The Schwartzes are a lovely family I met during the extreme zipline in Monteverde and offered me the courage to jump off a bridge (literally). I met Dawn in Samara while searching for the best ice cream in town and she immediately invited me to a full moon ceremony at her home.
However, traveling solo isn’t necessarily conducive to creating community and I was craving it. Luckily, I was able to find several Jewish communities to spend Shabbat. One was on the beach in Nosara and the other was in the mountains of the Diamante Valley. The people were warm and embracing. It’s a beautiful feeling to know that I always have a home during travels.
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| Shabbat Costa Rica Style |
QueposI'm Lucky it Wasn't Poop
June 26, 2024The next location was a quick stopover in Jaco. I was told it was a bit seedy and it didn’t disappoint. I ended up in the Tico (as in native Costa Ricans) area, which felt safer than the main town and tourist part. Still, I couldn’t wait to leave.
Although… there’s this:
So…maybe I can make it work here after all…
I have to give a mention to Fruity Monkey Poop. The name belies the sophistication of its inventory. While there are touristy trinkets and swag galore, they also have charming and beautifully made handcrafted masks and other art made of local wood. If you’re ever in the area, make sure you stop in.
Quepos is the town next to Manuel Antonio Beach and it is full of contrasts. There are hyper-tourist areas as well as neighborhoods that are clearly Tico. My place was between the two and still very expensive. There’s a reason some areas are tourist traps and it’s because they actually do contain sights that are worth seeing.
Manuel Antonio beach was worth it. You can’t bring in any liquid (unless it’s locked in a reusable water bottle) and food is verboten. The hike was mostly flat to the beach, and it was through the jungle, which was teeming with life. I saw iguanas, crabs, and other creatures.
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| There's an iguana nestled in the roots |
Crabs of all shapes and sizesThe beach itself is a dream. The bluest water, soft sand, gorgeous scenery, and protected by trees and cliffs.
I was peacefully reading my book in the shade when I was suddenly pelted with fruit from the tree above me.
And then I heard a commotion, so I stood up to find this:
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| Hi baby! |
This is why you can't bring any food into the park. The monkeys will steal it out of your hands.
An iguana decided to claim my towel and frankly, I would have let him have it if he didn’t move.
After a couple of clear hours, I knew I was flirting with my luck and turned back before the rain started.
Sloths (both the two- and three-toed varieties) are interesting creatures. They subsist on leaves alone which are difficult to digest, so sloths move slowly to preserve their energy. They also serve as a complete eco-system of invertebrate species with moths, fungi, and algae (which also serve as effective camouflage). Although sloths are excellent swimmers, they can barely walk, putting them at risk for predators, and so they spend nearly all their time in the trees. They eat there, they mate there, they give birth there, they raise their young there. And their camouflage ability is top rate. It’s nearly impossible to spot a sloth in the wild if you don’t have sharp eyes. But they are able to do something that I couldn’t during my time at the retreat, which is "realize their solid needs" only once a week. And it’s the exclusive reason they climb down trees.
As you can imagine, it’s pretty rare to catch a sloth in this act…
For the record, I watched the video many times and I think that was a branch or leaf that got stuck in the sloth's toes.
Dominical
Surrendering to the Mud
June 27-28, 2024
Dominical is an ex-pat town with relaxed, surfer energy. This is where you find the organic markets and yoga retreats. And apparently Bitcoin is the local currency. Alas, I did not have the foresight to invest in Crypto and make my millions.
I’m not a surfer and I was yearning for more woods, so I went to the local nature conservancy for a hike. Remember rainy season? It doesn’t let up. I expected the path to be a little bit soft, but I didn’t expect that I’d need a boat to travel through. While I valiantly fought total submersion, it became a losing battle and I surrendered. My hiking boots held up pretty well, but there was too much moisture and it was impossible for anything to stay dry.
I also came across two peccaries (pig-like mammals) and they ventured a little too close for my comfort. I started doing the calculations in my head to determine how fast I could run back, if necessary, given the muck. Fortunately, we went our separate ways without incident.
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| Her expression is gold |
Atenas/Grecia
The End is Nigh
June 29-30, 2024
I decided to visit Atenas and Grecia, which are in the Alajuela province just northwest of the Capital, San Jose, because they’re supposed to be lovely towns with incredible weather and not overrun by foreigners. These growing towns lived up to their reputation. Atenas has been touted for having the best climate on Earth and its residents ensure that visitors are fully aware of this designation.
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| The best climate on earth |
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In the Universe, the Solar System
In the Solar System, Planet Earth
In Planet Earth, America
In America, Central America
In Central America, Costa Rica
In Costa Rica, Alajuela
In Alajuela, Atenas
In Atenas, La Esquina Caliente (a bar)
The best climate in the world. |
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| For all its working class feel, change is a-coming |
The last stop was a town about an hour away called Grecia. While Atenas was a little bit drab and slow (with the above exceptions), Grecia was alive and popping with color.
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| The Baskin-Robbins of Costa Rica |
My final activity was a coffee tour. They are ubiquitous and having nothing to do that last afternoon, I decided to join the crowd at Café Tio Jose, a very small family farm. They showed us the coffee bean and how it turns into that little nugget of caffeinated perfection, gave us samples to taste, and then implored us to stop drinking coffee because doing so is one of the best things we can do to help the environment. Go figure.
They also give you a tour of their farm and teach you how to grind the cacao beans to start the chocolate process. If you're in the area, I highly recommend going.
Hasta Luego, Costa Rica
July 1, 2024
My Costa Rican adventure had come to an end (for now, at least). I was viscerally distraught at the thought of leaving and grateful for everything I had experienced over that past month. It wasn't all puppies and ice cream (that I leave to DCHR); I stretched a lot during this time. But it was the perfect combination of new and uncomfortable versus familiar to launch me on whatever the surrender and flow of this journey will bring.
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| Free coffee and chocolate while you wait for your flight |
